As one of the most prominent features of the face, lips play a crucial role in facial aesthetics and expression. They’re more than just an important aspect of attractiveness.
Our lips perform dynamic functions such as speech, eating and drinking. They also play a pivotal role in non-verbal communication. As such, ensuring your lip filler patients receive proportionate, natural-looking results is about more than simple beauty standards.

To help you understand the basics of lip anatomy, starting with the surface, we’re delving into their structure and key anatomical landmarks.
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The lips are composed of skin, fat, muscle, and mucous membrane, and are divided into the upper lip and the lower lip. The skin of the lips is thin and delicate, with a distinct transition zone between the skin of the face and the mucous membrane of the oral cavity.
In those with paler skin tones, the lips will have a red or pink colour due to the rich blood supply in this area. These shades can appear brown rather than red in patients with darker skin tones.
The orbicularis oris muscle is a key muscle that surrounds the lips and is responsible for their movement. It’s a circular muscle that surroundsthe mouth and contributes to functions such as lip puckering, smiling, and frowning. The orbicularis oris muscle, works together with the interacting lip elevator and depressor muscles for a complex range of lip movements.
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As aesthetics practitioners, we must be familiar with several key anatomical landmarks of the lips to ensure safe and effective lip augmentation procedures. Some of these landmarks include:
The vermilion border is the sharp demarcation between the red or pink part of the lip and the adjacent skin. It is an essential feature of the lips that contributes to their definition and shape.
The shape and prominence of the vermilion border can vary among different racial and ethnic groups. In Caucasians, the vermilion border is often well-defined and distinct. There’s generally a clear demarcation between the lip and the skin.
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In people of colour, particularly Black patients, the vermilion border may be less pronounced. There may be a more gradual transition from the lip to the surrounding skin. Asians may have a thinner vermilion border that is less pronounced compared to Caucasians.
The cupid’s bow is the double curve of the upper lip, resembling the shape of a bow. It is a crucial feature of the upper lip that contributes to its attractiveness and femininity. During lip augmentation procedures, the cupid’s bow can be enhanced to create a more defined and symmetrical shape.
The philtral columns are the vertical ridges that extend from the base of the nose to the cupid’s bow. They are an important aspect of the upper lip anatomy and contribute to its shape and definition. Enhancing the philtral columns can create a more pronounced and attractive upper lip appearance.

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The oral commissures are the corners of the mouth where the upper and lower lips meet. They play a significant role in facial aesthetic and expression. They can be enhanced during lip augmentation procedures to create a more youthful, less sad looking and uplifted appearance.
The white roll is the raised margin of the vermilion border that gives the lips their distinct outline. It is an important feature of lip aesthetics and contributes to the overall lip shape and definition. The white roll can be enhanced during lip augmentation procedures to create a more defined and youthful lip contour.
Lip anatomy can vary among different racial and ethnic groups. These differences can impact the thickness of the lips, the shape of the vermilion border, and the prominence of certain anatomical landmarks.
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Generally, Black patients tend to have thicker lips compared to Caucasians and Asians. The increased thickness is due to differences in the composition of the underlying tissues. This includes a higher amount of subcutaneous fat and thicker collagen fibres. Conversely, Asians tend to have thinner lips due to less subcutaneous fat and thinner collagen fibres.
The shape and prominence of key anatomical landmarks, such as the cupid’s bow and the philtral columns, can also differ among different racial and ethnic groups.

Caucasians typically have a more distinct cupid’s bow with a classic “double curve” shape. Black people may have a less pronounced cupid’s bow. Asians may have a different shape and prominence of the cupid’s bow, with a more subtle curve or a flatter appearance.
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It’s important for aesthetic medicine professionals to understand and consider the differences in lip anatomy among different patient cohorts when planning and performing lip filler treatments.
Furthermore, understanding and respecting the preferences and cultural norms of patients from different racial and ethnic backgrounds is crucial. This allows you to provide quality aesthetic care that centres your patient’s goals and proportions, not your own beauty ideals.
Proper communication and a thorough clinical consultation, along with a comprehensive understanding of lip anatomy is necessary. It can help ensure you’re able to provide safe and effective lip filler procedures to patients of diverse racial and ethnic backgrounds.
If You Have Lip Fillers, Can You Get An Ashley Piercing?
Check out our Aesthetics Training page if you’re a doctor, dentist, nurse or midwife looking to find the best aesthetics courses. You’ll find options for all levels, to learn or improve your lip filler injecting techniques.

Alternatively, drop our courses advisors a message on WhatsApp or book a call with them for a time that suits you. They’ll be happy to run you through options for your stage of aesthetic medicine experience.The lip piercing is a piercing that traditionally done on the side of the mouth on the upper or bottom piece of the lip. Over the years lip piercings have become more popular and go by a number of different names including; Labret, Monroe, Medusa, Vertical Labret, Snake Bites, Spider bites, Angel bites, Dolphin Bites, and Shark Bites. The piercings referring to “bites” are often two piercings placed together or symmetrically apart. The Labret piercing is one of the most traditional lip piercings and this is performed right below the lower lip and above the chin.
Lip piercings offer two unique jewelry options; captive bead rings and labret or flat back studs. When getting your lip pierced your piercer will pick the correct size based on your anatomy and the overall size of your lip. A captive bead ring will usually come in three sizes, 18 gauge, 16 gauge and 14 gauge. The gauge refers to the overall thickness of the ring and a 16 gauge is smaller than a 14 gauge. When your piercer is helping you chose jewelry, they will take into account the possible swelling that happens after the piercing. This means the jewelry they use initially is a little longer or larger to account for the swelling.
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The two most common diameters for the lip piercing are a 3/8 and 7/16. After the first three or four weeks you will be able to downsize the jewelry to smaller length that fits closer to the piercing. The swelling usually occurs in the first two weeks after having the piercing done. When changing the jewelry, you will have more options, such as a ring without a ball. A lip will almost always be pierced with a captive bead ring (or a flat back labret) because other rings have a seam that can get caught in the healing tissue. When you go to have the jewelry downsized you can switch the jewelry to a different type of ring or flatback.
The Labret has similar jewelry options to the lip piercing. The labret is usually pierced with a flat back barbell because a ring would need to be very large to accommodate for swelling, especially because it is in the middle of the lip. The labret is usually pierced with a 16 gauge or a 14 gauge, but it can be done in an 18 gauge for some individuals. The 16 gauge and the 14 gauge tend to work better because they are thicker and there are more jewelry options in those sizes.
There are a few different lengths that the labret can be pierced at; 7/16 or 3/8. It is not uncommon for women to be pierced with a 3/8 and men to be pierced with a 7/16. This is dependent on your anatomy and that is something that your piercer will determine before the piercing. Both of these lengths work well because they are on the longer side and give the piercing extra room to swell. After the initial 1-2 weeks the swelling should start to subside, and you can downsize the jewelry after 3-4 weeks.

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The labret piercing is a horizontal piercing centered under the bottom lip. It doesn’t actually pierce through the lip, but in the space underneath, with the back of the piercing resting flush against the inside of the lip. The most common jewelry for labret piercings is a flat back barbell or threadless labret post (pushpin post), usually in a 14 gauge or 16 gauge. Captive rings or circular barbells can be worn too, but be careful of contact with your teeth. A labret piercing price starts around $50, and can vary depending on jewelry selection and shop location. We offer hundreds of
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